Next Friday, April 22nd, is Earth Day, but since it's also Bettie Page's birthday, we'll be celebrating Pin-up Week instead. However, there's been a lot of interest in eco-friendly and ethically produced lingerie lately, and I wanted to make sure we talked about it on the blog. So I asked Josh Verleun, environmental lawyer and co-founder of Between the Sheets to share his expertise with us here. He and Layla are also appearing on Sundance channel's "All on the Line" tomorrow night so be sure to check them out!
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They say “green” is the new black. The world is changing and more and more companies are introducing “eco-friendly” products into their lineups. Although the thought of environmentally friendly apparel may evoke nightmares of scratchy hemp and drab colors, this perception couldn’t be further from the truth. Thankfully, some of the softest most comfortable, luxurious fabrics are eco-friendly, and many eco lines have a vibrant color palate.
With so many companies jumping on the green bandwagon and throwing around terms like “sustainable,” “eco-friendly,” and “green” in a seemingly interchangeable manner, it can be almost impossible to sort out what it all means. The fashion and lingerie worlds are no different with new eco lines introduced every season.
With so many terms floating out there, I think it is important to start the conversation about “eco fashion” from a baseline understanding of what these terms mean. It’s also true that no matter how “green” a new line may be, there are always tradeoffs and environmental costs of some sort. For example a line of “eco” undies could be made from organic cotton or modal, but use spandex or other non-sustainable stretch fibers in their fabric. Even though spandex may not make you think of saving the planet, using a fabric with high spandex content makes the garment last longer and wear better, keeping it in your drawer and out of the garbage.
Apparel companies who set out to create eco-friendly lines must make countless numbers of these types of decisions and have to decide where their fabrics, trims, and other materials are sourced, as well as where the line is manufactured. This makes it very important for companies to be transparent with their customers about these decisions.
What does “green” mean?
It can be a challenge to sort out what each “green” term means, and figure out which terms have real meaning and are more than just marketing buzzwords. For example, “Certified Organic” products are regulated by the US Department of Agriculture and must follow certain standards, and Fair Trade Certified apparel (which recently was introduced to the US) is certified by several affiliated not-for-profit organizations around the world and works to guarantee fair wages and labor conditions. On the other hand, products that call themselves “green” or “sustainable” are using vague and poorly defined terms that could mean a whole range of things.
Even if a garment is made of organic or another eco material, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is environmentally friendly. This is why transparency from a company is so important. For example — a shirt could be made of organic cotton, but be dyed in a polluting dye-house in China, or could be sewn in a factory that does not pay a living wage. This same organic cotton could come from China, be cut in Mexico, and sewn in India — adding up to a large carbon footprint.
How to tell “real green” from “greenish”
Even though many lines call themselves green because they use “sustainable” materials, not all “green” is created equal.
Bamboo: Fabrics made of bamboo have been touted as natural, green, and environmentally friendly, but are produced using a non-natural chemical process that leads to air and water pollution. The bamboo plants are broken down to be spun into fibers using acetate (not so different from nail polish remover). These deceptive eco claims led the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) to crack down on companies who were “Bamboozaling” consumers by falsely marketing their clothing made of bamboo fabrics using terms such as natural, and environmentally friendly --- when the fabric was in fact Rayon.
Cotton: Other fibers used in fabrics can be more environmentally friendly — although there are still eco-pluses and minuses. Cotton is considered the world's 'dirtiest' crop --- even though it covers 2.5% of the world's cultivated land, traditional cotton production uses 16% of the world's insecticides, more than any other single major crop. Organic cotton is grown in a manner that doesn’t use harmful pesticides, thus sharply reducing the environmental impact. Despite these huge reductions in impact, like all cotton, organic cotton uses an enormous amount of water to grow, which in and of itself is an environmental impact.
Modal: Another eco-friendly fiber is modal. Made from sustainably harvested beech trees, the wood is broken down using chemicals in a “closed-loop” process that reuses much of the chemicals. The fibers are then spun and knit into fabric. Although similar, this process is far more environmentally friendly than the process that turns bamboo into fiber as the chemicals are reused and not discarded.
Polyester: It may surprise you, but Polyester is now emerging as an “eco friendly” fabric. With advancements in production and recyclability, polyester’s environmental star is on the rise, even though it is made from a non-renewable resource.
Environmentally friendly and affordable:
Even though the desire is often there to buy products and support companies who help protect the planet, cost can sometimes get in the way. As more and more companies introduce environmentally friendly lines the price points for these offerings have started to broaden from basic to contemporary to luxury. Although you don’t often find eco-friendly lingerie at bargain basement prices, there are lines that hit price points from $15-20 for bottoms and $30-$50 for bras. At most price points the added benefit is often that the lines are produced in the US, supporting our local economy and keeping jobs from vanishing overseas.
It’s Easy to Go Green:
With so many companies offering “green” or “eco-friendly” intimates and other fashion, going green is not so hard or expensive. All that it takes is a little time to become an educated consumer on the things to look for, and a dedication to buying from companies who are transparent and market “eco friendly” products with real information and not just vague ill-defined buzzwords.
Bio: Josh Verleun lives and works in New York City as an environmental lawyer and business advisor. He currently holds the position of Staff Attorney at Riverkeeper, a not for profit tasked with protecting the waters of New York and serving as a global model for watershed stewardship and protection.
Josh is also the Vice President of Between the Sheets, a designer Loungewear and Intimate apparel manufacturer. In his role at BTS Josh provides legal counsel and contributes expertise in environmental and sustainable business practices. You can learn more about Josh at www.joshuaverleun.com
Photo Credits: Between the Sheets, Sandmaiden Sleepwear, Hopeless Lingerie, Purrfect Pineapples, ClareBare Lingerie